November 27, 2007
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There is such a thing as too much Victorian Gothic Architecture
Honestly. Walking round Mumbai is like walking round the V&A and the Natural History Museum, with the worst excesses of the Natural History Museum in Oxford, plus St Pancras Station thrown in for good measure. I’m almost thankful for the bomb damage in London…otherwise, London too could be similarly overwhelming.
went on the Guide Book’s suggested walk today (2.5km, allow three hours: I detoured, and it’s taken me closer to seven. What with the stop at the museum, and all. Museum was like a wannabe V&A. I think I’ve been spoilt by London). I started off at the Gateway to India, which was built to commemorate George V’s visit. I feel it shows a distinct Lack of Interest on the part of the monarchy that no King or Queen visited before George V, but Victoria had been Empress of India since the mid 1850s. I think Edward, Prince of Wales (Edward VII) made it out while he was Prince of Wales, but I’m not entirely sure. Can’t remember when the Queen last visited: fortunately, Ken Livingstone has now gone home! The Gateway to India was full of people who wanted me to go on a trip across the bay to Elephanta Island – a four hour round trip and definitely not without my seasick pills – as well as who wanted to take me on a tour round Mumbai. Got caught by a holy man, and am now sporting a painted on bindi, and red cord round my wrist, which is dyeing my skin a lovely shade of saffron, so won’t come off until that’s worn away. I have no idea about the staying power of the bindi, but it’s stood up to an awful lot of sweat so far. He also gave me something that looked like popcorn, but isn’t, and, since it’s been in my purse, I’m not even going to consider tasting it, and a purple flower, since squashed. I gave him 6 rupees, which was the first change that came to hand, and he blessed me again. I have no idea as to the significance of all this, but I think I went beyond the going rate….I skipped the Royal Bombay Yacht Club. There was far more interesting stuff to see. All up and down Coloba Causeway, there’s stalls. I gazed at brightly coloured silks, but couldn’t think what they could be made into, so didn’t buy, and bargained down a wall hanging from 750 rupees to 500 rupees, merely by looking disinterested and wandering off. There were some Little Black Sambo money boxes like we found at Great Aunt Ella’s, on sale which was interesting: I’m not sure if they were reproductions or not. It’s basically a bus, with arms, you put the coin on the thing’s right hand, and there’s a lever at the back, press it, and the money is tipped down the thing’s gullet. They’re all painted up the way the Black and White Minstrels were. Given how the political situation has changed, and how racism is definitely condemmed, I can’t think that they’d still be making them. Apparently, some Bollywood Stars were on the receiving end of racist remarks while they were in London, and this has caused a huge debate with various people in Mumbai saying how non-racist they are (so, consider why Jo was spat at when wearing western clothing? She’s back in Salwars all the time now – she says she gets stared at less). Meanwhile, someone wandered up and asked if I’d like to be in a Bollywood film. The answer was no, thank you.
that sound like a long day.. and this post just reminded me that i can’t keep the british royal family straight.. haaha.
enjoy your journey home
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